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by Jim Moodie
SHEGUIANDAH-Visitors
to Loonsong Garden, Manitoulin's first Community Shared Agriculture
(CSA) project located near Sheguiandah, are greeted with an unusual
sight: a whorl of colourful crops planted in concentric circles.
"It was really
just for fun and aesthetics," says Heather Thoma, explaining that when
she and farming partner Paul Salanki began planting their one-acre
organic garden in the spring, laying down one 50-foot row after
another became a tad monotonous. So the farmers decided "to balance it
out a bit."
The circular
plot may not have yielded better crops than the ones found in the more
conventional, neighbouring rows (at least, the couple has no
scientific evidence), but it has certainly caught people's
attention-not only because of its shape, but also the variety of the
plants it contains. Each ring consists of a different species: green
beans, carrots, beets, white cabbage, lettuce, oregano. At its centre,
like some sort of lush, splashy saturn, is a cluster of yellow
sunflowers.
"Almost
everyone who has come to the garden has commented on the circle,"
notes Ms. Thoma, musing that the artistic touch "creates a welcoming
mood, and shows right away that the growers care about what they're
doing."
The circle is
also, however, an apt metaphor for the way the community garden
functions. In adhering to organic farming principles, and growing
everything from open-pollinated seed, Ms. Thoma and Mr. Salanki are
sticking close to the natural cycles of the soil, the sun, the
seasons. In providing food locally to a group of share members, each
of whom has both a financial and emotional investment in the garden,
they're creating a logical, sustainable loop. And they're creating a
social circle to boot.
Since the
garden first began to yield produce back in June, Wednesdays have been
the weekly "pick-up day" for the 20 share members who signed on for
the growing season, paying $375 each (which amounts to less than $20 a
week). On such days, Ms. Thoma and Mr. Salanki are up early,
harvesting whatever is ready to be harvested that week, keeping
lettuces crisp in water and loading up cabbages and melons and
tomatoes in baskets, then weighing the produce on an oldfashioned
scale draped from an old swingset and parceling out shares in recycled
plastic bags.
Share members
arrive anytime between 4 and 7 pm. Inevitably, some will overlap with
others. Those who haven't met before are introduced and connections
are formed. Some people bring their children; others bring their dogs.
The mood is festive and easygoing, with slices of watermelon passed
around.
Keith Harfield,
or "Farmer Keith," as young Emilie Edwards calls him, generally sits
nearby in the shade, grinning and chatting with everyone who comes by.
He's not directly involved in the Loonsong Garden-he has his own
cow-calf operation to worry about-but it's his land on which the
garden is situated, and he shares many of the same farming principles
as Mr. Salanki and Ms. Thoma, as does his son Nicholas, a university
student who has made a summer job for himself as an organic market
gardener.
Market
gardening was the original focus of Mr. Salanki and Ms. Thoma as well.
"We had a market garden last year and took our produce to Gore Bay,
but we realized that if we were going to make a living at this, we
would have to do other things as well," says Ms. Thoma.
The two
continue to supply some produce to the local farmers' market in
Mindemoya, as well as to Garden's Gate Restaurant in Tehkummah. "We
don't see the CSA as something to do instead of that, but something
that complements it," stresses Ms. Thoma.
The idea of a
CSA is not a new one, even if it is relatively new to Northern Ontario
and totally new to Manitoulin. Mr. Salanki participated in a CSA in
Niagara several years ago as a share member, and both he and Ms. Thoma
were involved in one in New York State, where they lived prior to
moving to Manitoulin. Most CSAs, they say, are patterned after a
community farm that developed in Massachusetts in the early 1980s.
The general
idea, says Ms. Thoma, is to "create a stronger link between growers
and consumers, as well as to provide farmers with some support at the
beginning of the growing season." Share members assume some of the
risk, notes the farmer, "because you don't know what the season will
be like. But it seems like everyone takes on an adventurous spirit,
and this summer the participants seem to have been really pleased."
As with any
growing season, there were some weather variables to deal with. This
year's spring was exceptionally late and wet, and was followed by a
cold and dry summer, both of which affected the yield of many of the
vegetables. But September was warmer than expected and there were no
untimely killer frosts or crop-flattening tornados or rampaging bears
(the couple's solar-powered electric fence may have helped on that
latter account).
Every CSA is
slightly different. Some require members to work in the garden, or
help sell produce to the general public. Ms. Thoma and Mr. Salanki
opted to keep their operation focussed squarely on the 20 share
members, but not require any of them to put in time in the garden,
although all were welcome to volunteer, and many did.
Those who did
had the additional pleasure of consuming food that they'd physically
(however briefly they'd hoed or weeded or planted) helped to create.
Those who didn't still felt connected to the food they ended up
putting on their table, as they had a stake in the garden and had
visited the site and gotten to know the growers. All of which amounted
to a much more meaningful experience than simply yanking a package off
a shelf and tossing it in a grocery cart.
It's difficult
to find a complaint among those who took part in the CSA, unless you
count overabundance. As share member Jane Hubbard put it, "It was a
bit challenging because you had to figure out what to do with all this
great stuff." Frowning apologetically, she admitted to "freezing a few
things."
Of course
sticking a few things in a freezer is nothing new for most of us, but
it does approach a crime when the food you are receiving has been
pulled from the earth that very day, crackling with freshness and
nutrition. Most supermarket food, even the organic food found in
grocery stores, has lost much of its zip and nutritional value by the
time you consume it. As Mr. Salanki notes, "You can buy organic
lettuce from California, but it will be 12 days from the harvest
before you get it."
Supermarkets
do stock organic food from more proximate locales, but from where,
exactly, you rarely know. And the organic label is no guarantee that
the food won't be processed, Mr. Salanki points out.
His
philosophy, like that of Ms. Thoma's, is that growing organic is just
one part of a wider approach to healthy, sustainable living. They
eschew pesticides and herbicides, and want their food to be as natural
and nutritious as possible, but "there are broader social and
ecological issues that we want to take into consideration as well. We
want to support local and regional food systems."
Providing food
locally vastly decreases the energy consumed in the transporting and
processing of food items, the two point out, and fosters a sense of
pride and community among those who participate in programs like the
CSA (not to mention provides work for the growers).
And then
there's the personal touch a CSA affords. As the two wrote in a flyer
they distributed last winter to gauge interest in the initiative, "In
a CSA program, the grower knows who he/she is growing for, and can
take the shared preferences of the group into consideration when
making crop choices, and has more resources (both time and economic)
to focus on the growing and harvesting of quality food." As well, "The
share member knows the source of his/her food and can be assured of
its quality and freshness."
Ms. Hubbard
certainly appreciated this aspect of the CSA. "It's wonderful to know
where the vegetables are coming from and to know they're grown
organically and with a lot of care," she says.
For share
member Jim Murray, it's the "sustainability of their type of
agriculture" that strikes him as most impressive. He notes that rather
than truck water to the garden, the farmers have been pumping it from
a springfed pond, and powering their pump with a solar panel. "It's so
exquisite and such a powerful statement," he says. "Instead of burning
fuel, you've got photons pushing a pump from a pond."
For Joanne
Young and Robert Wilger, who live in Kitchener and cottage on Lake
Kagawong, the produce reaped at Loonsong Garden is unequalled in
quality. "We've taken part in share programs in Kitchener and eat
organic food all the time, but this one is as good as any we've come
across," says Mr. Wilger. "Better actually," adds Ms. Young, "because
it's grown in fresh air instead of polluted southern Ontario air."
A CSA, if the
version spearheaded by Ms. Thoma and Mr. Salanki is any indication,
also offers a remarkable variety of veggies. Familiar standbys like
tomatoes and carrots have been part of the harvest, but share members
have also opened up their recycled plastic bags to discover such
exotic items as kohlrabi, climbing Italian flat beans and patty pan
squash (which looks something like a spaceship from a sci fi B-movie).
And that's
just a brief sample. Ms. Thoma recently added up all the varieties of
plants the two have grown over the summer, and came up with a rather
startling figure: 101. Imagine: 101 different types of plants, all in
a garden smaller than your average soccer field, and tended by just
two people. This figure includes 15 varieties of tomatoes, five types
of lettuce, and eight versions of beans. Try to find that in a bag of
frozen mixed vegetables.
As
Thanksgiving approaches, and the growing season winds down (the last
Loonsong Garden harvest is the Wednesday following the Thanksgiving
weekend), those who have participated in the Island's first CSA seem
all the more appreciative of the cornucopia that has come their way.
Next summer
Ms. Thoma and Mr. Salanki plan to expand the project to include 30
share members. "Most people from this year have said they'll do it
again, and we think we can handle another 10 members, although we
might need to have one of those people helping us regularly in the
garden in exchange for their share," Ms. Thoma says. Those interested
in next season's CSA may contact the couple after Thanksgiving in
Kagawong, at 282-0358.
Meanwhile,
it's time for current share members to enjoy the final installments of
this year's harvest, break out the pickling and preserving jars, and
get ready for the end-of-season potluck dinner the farmers plan to
host in late October. |