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by Jim
Moodie
MANITOULIN--As disciples of high-protein diets blithely stuff
their grocery carts full of pricey beef--a strip loin steak from
a Manitoulin store cost this author $22.43 cents per kilogram
last week--Manitoulin beef and dairy farmers are wondering if
they can afford to put any sort of food on the table, let alone
feed their herds.
Last year
was a disastrous one for the beef industry, with Canada's first
case of bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE)--often, to the
dismay of farmers, called "mad cow"--being detected in May. The
US, Canada's biggest export market, promptly closed its border;
prices plummeted and farmers found themselves with cattle they
couldn't move. Then, just as prices started to rebound in the
fall, and optimism was high that the border would reopen early
in 2004, a second case of BSE was found on December 23 in the
US. The cow in question would turn out to have originated in
Canada.
Farmers
could not have asked for a worse Christmas present. The border
now remains firmly closed to live cattle and most beef products,
with no sign of the trade ban being lifted any day soon.
"It's like
a lottery. Pick a day and gamble on when it will happen," says
Jim Martin, a Western Manitoulin cow-calf operator and Northern
Ontario director for the Ontario Cattlemen's Association. Larry
Moggy, who, along with his father Ralph, operates one of the
largest cattle farms in the area, fears it could be "five or six
years before cows are let out of the country."
Most of
the trade Canada does with the U.S. is in live cattle--older
cows or "cull cows," as well as younger choice steers and
heifers, which are sent south to be slaughtered and packed.
"Past history is that seven out of 10 mature cows have gone to
the US to be processed," says Mr. Martin. While he doesn't have
an exact figure for young cattle, he assumes "it would be close
to half of them that go south, because we produce twice as much
as we consume."
The
current trade ban prohibits all live cattle, and the only meat
allowed to cross the border is boneless beef from cattle aged 30
months or less.
The
restriction has taken its toll. Recent figures released by
Statistics Canada indicate that cattle receipts fell by more
than a third nationwide in 2003, from $7 billion to $4.6
billion. The pinch, however, may be felt more in 2004 for area
farmers. Mr. Martin says that Ontario farmers are currently
"losing $5 million a week." Prices at the fall Co-op sale were
relatively good, but "ever since October they have tailed off,
and after December 23 (when the second BSE case was detected),
they really nose-dived," notes Mr. Martin.
Many local
farmers gambled on the border reopening in the new year, and now
they're stuck with cattle they can't sell. "What a lot of
cow-calf guys tried to do was background them (feeding a weaned
calf until it reaches a weight of 1,000 to 1,200 pounds), but
they got caught with the second case of BSE," notes Mr. Moggy.
Those cattle are getting heftier by the day, but prices are
falling rather than rising.
As an
example of just how far prices have plummeted, Mr. Moggy points
out that "I just shipped a bull last week that weighed a ton,
and I got $480 for it. At the same time last year, I would have
got $1,500. It's just unbelievable."
But that
price for Mr. Moggy's bull--a mere third of what it would
ordinarily fetch--is actually better than the prices farmers are
getting for the older cull cows that go for hamburger. Tehkummah
dairy farmer Jim Anstice says that a friend of his recently sold
"a cull cow for $65. Normally you'd be looking at $600."
Other
farmers he knows have driven all the way to Calgary to try to
unload cows. Dairy farmers are particularly affected right now,
says Mr. Anstice, because their cull rates are higher than beef
operations. "Some years 20 per cent of the herd will go to
culling," he notes.
Prices for
cows are so low, said Mr. Martin, that "there are instances
where what you get won't even pay for the freight." A few
farmers have, indeed, ended up in the hole on a cow transaction.
Howland farmer Ken Ferguson says that "some operators on the
Island recently shipped cows to market in southern Ontario, and
just got a bill back in return."
Given the
potential to actually lose money on a mature cow, Mr. Moggy says
"you almost feel like just taking them out and putting a bullet
in their head." Farmers are loathe to take such actions, he
stresses, but frustrations are building, particularly since
prices in the grocery store haven't budged appreciably through
this crisis. "Why let the slaughter houses make the money while
you take a hit?" Mr. Moggy asks.
The
Bidwell farmer isn't the only one to have raised eyebrows at the
continuing high price of beef in the stores at a time when beef
producers are struggling. According to a recent CBC news story,
farmers are pressuring Ottawa to look into the situation,
arguing that middlemen are making a profit at their expense.
Meat packers and grocery retailers plead innocence, but Mr.
Moggy insists that "somebody must be making money."
Farmers
also suspect a hidden agenda in the continuing US ban on
Canadian beef. "It's pretty political right now," says Mr.
Martin. "They (the US) are eliminating a lot of competition for
their farmers--all the markets we used to have, they've picked
up."
The OCA
director notes that the US has traditionally "exported 10 per
cent of their beef, and what came in from Canada has been about
10 per cent," so there is no real crisis south of the border.
"By blocking our beef, they can just eat their way out of the
problem, whereas Canada (which exports 60 per cent of its beef)
can't."
The threat
to human health is being overstated, according to farmers.
Ruminant meat and bone meal in feed--understood to be the cause
of BSE in cows--has been banned in Canada since 1997. And even
if a cow was old enough to have been infected by contaminated
feed, the illness could only be passed on to humans (as occurred
in Britain, in the form of the brain-wasting Creutzfeldt-Jakob
disease) if spine or brain matter was ingested, and these
materials are now routinely removed in Canada, says Mr. Martin.
"If you remove the spine and brain, you basically eliminate all
risk of infection," he says, adding that this procedure is far
more foolproof than allowing spines and brains to be processed
and subjecting each cow to tests. "There is a better chance of
human error in a lab test than just banning the risk material."
That the
BSE-infected cow found in the US could be traced back to Canada
should be reassuring, rather than distressing, according to Mr.
Martin, because it proves that the system of tagging cattle and
screening them for BSE is working.
The
argument has been made--indeed, it's a key recommendation of a
recent industry report in Alberta--that cows old enough to have
been possibly contaminated by feed containing animal parts
should be euthanized in a mass cull, but farmers fear a consumer
backlash should that plan go ahead. Scenes like those from
Britain in the 1990s, when cattle were destroyed en masse, could
turn the stomachs of consumers and turn them permanently off the
product.
At
present, Canadians are still buying beef at an impressive rate,
given the spotlight on so-called mad cow. "We're the first
country where BSE was found and we didn't lose consumer
confidence or demand for beef," notes Mr. Martin. "Other
countries have been devastated, but here demand actually
increased. The public recognized that this cow in Canada never
did make it into the food chain."
That's one
positive for cattle farmers to cling to through these trying
times. There are others, too. Federal Minister of Agriculture
Bob Speller hinted last week that an emergency aid package will
be announced within days, and there are signs that a
slaughterhouse will open soon in southern Ontario to process
culled cows, according to Mr. Moggy. Local farmers can also feel
relatively lucky compared to counterparts in Western Canada,
which has been doubly hit by recent droughts.
A truly
revived industry, for both Manitoulin and the rest of the
country, however, depends on the border being reopened, and
while that seemed a good bet before Christmas, it's anyone's
guess now when it will occur. Meanwhile, local cattle farmers
have to tough it out, saving costs where they can. In Mr.
Moggy's case, this means repairing the equipment he has, rather
than investing in new machines, as he would normally do each
year. For George Peltier, a Wikwemikong cow-calf operator, it
means holding onto the herd he has and hoping for better times
ahead. "We didn't make anything this year because we kept our
calves," he says.
Farmers
certainly can't expect an income boost from mature or bred cows.
"I used to joke with my wife that if we get into trouble we can
always sell the bred cows," notes Mr. Moggy. "Now nobody wants
them--they're worth nothing."
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